Does your concrete stain?
Our concrete is very stain-resistant, much more so than natural stone. The sealer provides excellent protection against acids and oils without sacrificing the look and feel of polished concrete. This stain resistance, however, develops slowly, so for the first two weeks following application, we ask that you be extra careful with water and oils. It also cannot handle anything with a lot of chlorine, so please don't use bleach, Chlorox or C-L-R products on it. Regular chlorinated water is perfectly safe, though.
The sealer is vulnerable to some foods: yellow mustard and orange soft drinks such as Crush will leave a faint stain if they are not cleaned up promptly. These stains can be removed by light sanding and re-applying the sealer.
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How often does it need to be re-sealed?
Depending on how much the surface is abraded, either by scrubbing or sliding plates back and forth over the same area, the sealer may need to be touched up after a year or two. Fortunately, we can spot-seal and blend new sealer invisibly into existing sealer.
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What should we clean it with?
Any gentle cleaner, such as a mild natural dish soap, will do well. Avoid anything containing chlorine bleach, hydrochloric acid and products such as Ajax, Comet or similar abrasive powders – at best, you will dull the surface, and at worst, you may rub out the sealer altogether.
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How much does concrete cost?
We use surface area as a guide for our pricing, but it is greatly affected by the size and shape of the surface. Generally, it's comparable to premium grades of solid surface materials such as natural and engineered stone surfaces, as well as green-marketed surfaces such as Icestone, Vetrazzo and Eco by Cosentino. True three-dimensional shapes cost more than the same surface area in flat sections.
In fact, lower-end grades of granite and synthetics are cheaper than our concrete. While some DIY magazines have touted concrete as an inexpensive solid surface, this may be true only if you make it yourself, but then you risk making a countertop that is not worthy of such a prominent place in your home. A quality concrete countertop is not a DIY project.
If you feel that granite (or engineered stone surface) is a superior product, and you're looking at concrete only because you think it might be cheaper, we suggest that you get the surface that you really want. Don't get concrete unless you absolutely love it, and then we'll make sure that you get a surface you'll love.
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Can we put hot things on it?
Our regular concrete (88% recycled, 88% local origin ingredients) is very resistant to occasional heat such as that from a hot frying pan. However, it cannot tolerate extreme overheating such as a torch flame in contact with the surface. For that kind of heat (including fireplace combustion chambers and pizza ovens), we offer a different concrete (96% recycled, 55% local origin ingredients) which tolerates
temperatures up to 900C (1700F).
Isn’t porosity a problem?
Our concrete has very low porosity, and the sealer completely protects the surface. Porosity is not an issue with our concrete.
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Can we cut on it?
You risk scratching the sealer, and you will ruin your knives. Always cut on a wood surface. We can mold a recess for a cutting board into the concrete slab for a sleek look with no protrusions.
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Will it crack?
Most likely, no. Our concrete does not experience shrinkage cracks, and we design the reinforcement for our slabs to suit the cabinets that support them. A 200-pound person can stand on top of most parts of a concrete countertop with no fear of causing a crack. Two exceptions would be an unsupported overhang and the narrow strips between the countertop edges and the sink. Even outdoors, our concrete is so dense that it does not absorb enough water to suffer damage from freezing and thawing.
The concrete may develop micro-fissures that show up when the surface is wet. We do not consider these fissures to be 'cracks' for the purpose of our warranty.
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Will it chip?
Yes, if you hit it with a stone, ceramic or metal object. Often, the first impact will not cause any visible damage, but repeated impacts in the same spot can weaken the concrete sufficiently that a slight bump could become the proverbial “straw that broke the camel's back”. We can repair chips, but the repairs are not invisible.
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Do you pour concrete in the clients’ kitchens or in your factory?
Nearly all our work is precast in our facility because we are able to achieve a much flatter surface with this method. We also have more control over the entire process. However, we are able to cast in place, especially if the client wants a very large countertop to be seamless.
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Can you cast a kitchen sink?
Yes, but please be aware that a concrete sink is very unforgiving to dishes that slip out of your hands. Also, it cannot tolerate having knives or frying pans thrown into it, and the sealer in the bowls will be quickly scratched.
If you expect that your main sink will be heavily used, you may be happier with stainless steel. Concrete would be a great material for a second sink such as a long trough or a small prep sink.
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How thick is the concrete?
Our minimum countertop thickness is 25 mm, and our standard thicknesses are in 13-mm increments up to 75 mm. Backsplashes are 15 mm thick. We can also make custom thicknesses of any size.
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How much does concrete weigh?
Whatever the apparent edge thickness, the thickness of the main part of the slab is 20 mm (except for 25-mm surfaces, which are cast solid). It weighs approximately 40% less than 20 mm granite.
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What is the largest single piece you can make?
Our largest casting table is 388 cm (12.5 ft) long by 170 cm (67”) wide, so we can cast larger seamless slabs and L-shapes than you could get with stone or quartz surfaces.
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Do we need special cabinets?
When selecting cabinets, please ensure that your cabinet maker will build them with screws and dowels. Brad nails are only a 'third hand' - they hold pieces together until the pieces can be fastened more securely. We cannot accept any responsibility for improperly constructed cabinets, so please choose them carefully. If you are looking to save money, IKEA cabinets are a good option.
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Do you sell prepackaged countertop mixes?
We’re getting this question more and more, likely because some US countertop manufacturers are selling DIY mixes and kits. We do not prepackage a mix. In our process, there are key dry and liquid ingredients which must be added in a specific sequence in order to create a proper mix. Since prepackaging eliminates the sequencing, the mix will produce an inferior product. Also, the concrete we make sets up in 10 minutes (and cannot be slowed down without compromising strength), so it's not a mix for novices.
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Can you repair/reseal/repolish a concrete countertop made by someone else?
We have refinished stained and pitted countertops made by our former competitors, however, we do not assume any responsibility for such repairs.
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Do you pour or polish concrete floors/patios? Do you make stamped concrete?
Not at this time. Our experience with traditional concrete work is very limited, and it requires a completely different skill set from precasting countertops. For such projects, please contact Mr. Steve Addison of Concrete Evidence – www.concrete-evidence.com – at 416-898-1193.
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Where can I get even more information on concrete countertops?
Follow this link to the Concrete Connections website to read through some very informative articles and look at other people’s concrete creations. This website is maintained by the Concrete Countertop Institute in Raleigh, NC, and Concrete Elegance Inc. has no vested interest whatsoever in its content. The Concrete Network and Concrete Countertops Forum also have a wealth of information on all things concrete.
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